I was sceptical places like Loutro still existed. And even if they did, I was doubtful I would find them in time.
Located on the south-west coast of Crete, Loutro is inaccessible by car. Its white, angular buildings are clustered around a small bay, which can only be reached by foot or by boat. In winter just seven people live here and during these months only two boats arrive each week; one to deliver food and another to collect mail.
In the summer months, the town’s population grows significantly as seasonal workers and holidaymakers return, but Loutro’s isolated location ensures it can only expand so far.
Boats carry tourists around the headland to local beaches, but we always preferred to walk along the coastal path, with its pretty little churches and gorgeous views of the turquoise water. One day we mustered the energy to walk up Aradena Gorge, a 4km long canyon that starts on the shore of Mamara Beach. Here, we stumbled upon an idyllic thatched roof taverna which previously featured in The Guardian as one of the best beach cafes in Europe.
On the way back to Loutro we spotted a sign that read:
Please put cars inside this fence.
It encapsulated the area perfectly and showed exactly who had priority on this wonderfully laid-back and peaceful stretch of coastline.
Generally, I try to avoid travelling somewhere I’ve visited before. The world is simply too large a place to return to the same destinations. But I already know I’ll be making an exception for Loutro.
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