Tell anyone who’s not been to Colombia you are imminently travelling to the country and they will inhale sharply and imagine danger around every corner in Medellin and Bogota. This perception is outdated, yet refuses to disappear. But tell someone who’s been to the country about your travel plans, and they will begin to talk animatedly about Tayrona National Park. Acclaimed destinations often leave new visitors underwhelmed, as their experience falls short of their sky-high expectations. Yet Tayrona surpassed all of mine.
Don’t be tempted to explore the park on a day trip. You’ll end up bypassing stunning beaches as you sweat through the jungle to reach the iconic spot of Cabo San Juan – only to have to turn back soon afterwards. It’s far better to spend two nights here and give yourself the opportunity to enjoy the beaches and explore some of the lesser used paths.
At the entrance to the park visitors can either walk 4km to the end of the road, or take a minibus there for 3,000 pesos (75p). Resist the temptation to save your pennies – unless you are starting very early, a hot two-and-a-half-hour walk towards Cabo San Juan awaits from the point the bus drops you off, so save your energy and jump in. The beginning of the trail is along a boardwalk, where you can hear the sound of lizards scuttling underneath your feet.
If you haven’t bought food with you, there’s an incredible bakery behind Arrecifes Beach that bakes homemade bread and sandwiches. The quality of the food is such that, in the midst of a jungle just behind a gorgeous coastline, sitting in the shade by this bakery will still represent a highlight of your trip.
As with several other beaches, swimming at Arrecifes is forbidden, so keep going until you get to La Piscina. Particularly so if you’re scared of caimans – which are occasionally spotted in the lagoon by Arrecifes. La Piscina is popular with families and a quick dip here will reinvigorate you for the final 25 minute walk to Cabo San Juan.
There are numerous alternative places to stay in Tayrona, but the majority of visitors spend a night here. While tents are available, grab a locker and a hammock and spend the rest of the day by the sea. Once the sun has set, stay on the beach and you’ll have a good chance of seeing shooting stars. However, don’t let yourself get too distracted – the one restaurant at the site closes at 8pm. Arrive there later than 7.15pm though and the menu will be rendered redundant – rice and chips will be the only items left.
Assuming you’ve had your fix of stargazing, after dinner you’ll have to rely on alternative entertainment, as there is no WiFi available. When you first arrive at Cabo San Juan and see the hammocks and tents and the groups of people drinking on the beach, it’s easy to assume you’re at a hedonist’s paradise. In reality though, the majority of the people sunbathing are day-trippers and at night, with little else to do, people go to bed early, with many rising to see sunrise.
Thrill-seekers may enjoy exploring further west around the coast the following morning. A short walk will lead to two more gorgeous beaches – the second of which is a nudist beach. Although stripping off is optional, both beaches are rarely explored by the majority of visitors, largely because neither is considered suitable for swimming.
Alternatively, if you’re feeling energetic, head up the hillside to the pre-Hispanic ruins of a town known as Pueblito. Return in time to pick up your bags before the check out time of 11am and begin the walk back through the jungle, stopping off once again at La Piscina to enjoy the crystal clear waters.
Meander your way through the jungle paths until you reach the beginning of the Nine Piedras hike. The path takes its name from the historic stones with holes carved through them that line the trek. The hike only takes about an hour and provides great cliff-top views. It is also one of the quieter spots of the park, meaning you have a high chance of seeing an even greater variety of wildlife than elsewhere in Tayrona.
Finally, make your way towards the campsite at Castilletes Beach. The Ecohabs west of Canaveral Beach will tempt those with weary feet, but the huts are hugely expensive at 870,000 pesos (£222) for the night, while the tents at Castilletes come with a mattress and pillows for only 60,000 pesos (£15). It is far less busy than the site at Cabo San Juan and the restaurant is better too.
After enjoying breakfast and the early morning at the beach, walk the final 3km back to the park entrance. At this time the number of minibuses travelling on the road are fewer, the weather isn’t too hot and you can enjoy watching the monkeys play in the trees overhead.
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