During the course of the months I spent in Bocas del Toro, I became extremely fond of the destination. You would expect this to be self-evident when living and working in a Caribbean paradise, yet each year some visitors are disappointed by their trip to the archipelago.
This says more about them than Bocas though.
Bocas Town, the central hub for visiting the islands, is often used as a stick to pour scorn on Bocas’ much-touted charms. Too touristy, too expensive, too rudimentary – it would seem the town can’t win. Look a little closer though, and the area has a lot to offer. The best octopus dishes and the best hamburgers I’ve ever eaten have been consumed at Octo and Captain Caribe in Bocas. Moreover, my favourite smoothie – Surf’s Up – is served at La Buga. I’ve heard people criticise the hard sell of boat owners eager to take you on day trips, but they fail to mention the friendliness of the owners at places like Bocas Falafel, who are always eager to chat regardless of the level of your Spanish. Bocas is a small place and if you spend a little time here, people quickly recognise you and will wave to you on the streets as you pass. For a place considered by some to be unfriendly and driven purely by financial gain, Bocas residents are remarkably warm.
The islands boast more waterfront bars than any short-term visitor could hope to experience. Several, such as Mamallena, have decks where you can jump straight off into the sea, while others provide a wonderful spot to grab dinner as the sun sets. Although I’m a die-hard carnivore, one of my favourites is the vegan cafe Leaf Eaters, where you can enjoy a healthy snack while looking over the water to see starfish, flying manta-rays and passing dolphins. In recent years, the addition of craft beer at the Bocas Brewery means you can now enjoy a wider range of drinks before heading out to effortlessly cool clubs such as Summer.
Then there is the allure of the beaches themselves. Whether it’s the snorkelling opportunities around the uninhabited islands of Zapatilla, surfing at Bluff Beach, or simply relaxing at Red Frog Beach, Bocas has a calling card for every tourist. Even the restless have plenty to explore. Hikers can enjoy walking alongside monkeys on the Jungle Highway and there are beautiful, palm tree-lined walks along the coast of Carenero Island and from Bocas del Drago to Starfish Beach.
Bocas del Toro only disappoints those unwilling to explore it properly. For those who have a burning desire to discover the cove around the corner, you’re in for a treat you’ll never forget.
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